{"id":8945,"date":"2024-11-08T08:15:30","date_gmt":"2024-11-08T07:15:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/?p=8945"},"modified":"2024-11-11T11:53:24","modified_gmt":"2024-11-11T10:53:24","slug":"making-better-autumn-photography","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/es\/making-better-autumn-photography\/","title":{"rendered":"C\u00f3mo hacer mejores fotograf\u00edas de oto\u00f1o"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>El oto\u00f1o en Europa es la \u00e9poca en que los colores se vuelven m\u00e1s vivos y el paisaje adquiere su mejor aspecto. Conseguir mejores fotograf\u00edas de oto\u00f1o es cuesti\u00f3n de capturar esos tonos vivos. En este art\u00edculo te explicamos c\u00f3mo conseguirlo f\u00e1cilmente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-rank-math-toc-block\" id=\"rank-math-toc\"><h2>Tabla de contenido<\/h2><nav><ul><li><a href=\"#polarising-filters\">Video<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#polarising-filters-1\">Filtros polarizadores<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#backlighting\">Retroiluminaci\u00f3n<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#software\">Software<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#waterfall-photography\">Fotograf\u00eda de cascadas<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#glass-filters-versus-software\">Filtros de vidrio frente a software<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"polarising-filters\">Video<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Consejos esenciales para fotografiar cascadas este oto\u00f1o\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/LkrfC4YYL7k?start=150&#038;feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"polarising-filters-1\">Filtros polarizadores<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>La mejor forma de realzar los colores oto\u00f1ales es utilizar un filtro polarizador. Se trata de un filtro que se coloca delante del objetivo y se gira para controlar el grado de polarizaci\u00f3n. El efecto es eliminar el resplandor reflejado, por lo que el agua, por ejemplo, saldr\u00e1 sin los reflejos especulares y las hojas, sin el resplandor reflejado, mostrar\u00e1n sus verdaderos y ricos colores.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"864\" height=\"1080\" src=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Mulhacen-with-Autumn.jpg\" alt=\"Mulhacen Framed by Autumn Leaves\" class=\"wp-image-8953\" srcset=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Mulhacen-with-Autumn.jpg 864w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Mulhacen-with-Autumn-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Mulhacen-with-Autumn-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Mulhacen-with-Autumn-10x12.jpg 10w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 864px) 100vw, 864px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mulhacen - Sierra Nevada<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"backlighting\">Retroiluminaci\u00f3n<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Si disparas hacia el sol o en la direcci\u00f3n general del sol, evitar\u00e1s la mayor parte del resplandor elegido y tambi\u00e9n conseguir\u00e1s que las hojas de oto\u00f1o tengan un brillo de cine. Esto puede ser complicado porque no quieres que el objetivo destelle y, si utilizas un gran angular, tienes que protegerlo del sol sin que el escudo entre en la toma. Esto puede obligar a manejar la c\u00e1mara con una mano y utilizar la otra para proteger el objetivo. No es lo ideal si utilizas una DSLR pesada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"832\" height=\"1080\" src=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Verada-de-Estrella-in-Autumn.jpg\" alt=\"Verada de Estrella in Autumn\" class=\"wp-image-8954\" srcset=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Verada-de-Estrella-in-Autumn.jpg 832w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Verada-de-Estrella-in-Autumn-231x300.jpg 231w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Verada-de-Estrella-in-Autumn-768x997.jpg 768w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Verada-de-Estrella-in-Autumn-9x12.jpg 9w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 832px) 100vw, 832px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Verada de Estrella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Esta composici\u00f3n es bastante recargada, hay mucho que hacer, pero me gustan las capas que introduce la luz, empezando por las hierbas a contraluz en la pared del acantilado, abajo a la izquierda, y el \u00e1rbol iluminado en el centro, volviendo a las monta\u00f1as. Y si te fijas bien, hay un excursionista solitario a contraluz en el sendero bajo el \u00e1rbol.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"software\">Software<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Ninguno de los efectos que he utilizado aqu\u00ed con mis filtros se puede duplicar exactamente en software.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Como \u00faltimo recurso, puede aumentar la saturaci\u00f3n y ajustar la luminancia de los canales rojo, naranja y amarillo en un programa como <a class=\"thirstylink\" title=\"PhotoLab DxO\" href=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/es\/recommends\/dxo-photolab\/\" data-shortcode=\"true\">PhotoLab DxO<\/a> o Adobe Lightroom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>DxO tambi\u00e9n fabrica Color Efex, que forma parte del <a class=\"thirstylink\" title=\"Colecci\u00f3n Nik\" href=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/es\/recommends\/nik-collection\/\" data-shortcode=\"true\">Colecci\u00f3n Nik.<\/a> En Color Efex hay un filtro llamado Pro Contrast que hace un trabajo excelente para aumentar el contraste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"waterfall-photography\">Fotograf\u00eda de cascadas<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"864\" height=\"1080\" src=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Conchar-Waterfall.jpg\" alt=\"Conchar Waterfall\" class=\"wp-image-8950\" srcset=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Conchar-Waterfall.jpg 864w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Conchar-Waterfall-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Conchar-Waterfall-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Conchar-Waterfall-10x12.jpg 10w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 864px) 100vw, 864px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">5 segundos - CPL +0,6 ND f\/9 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>El oto\u00f1o se puede combinar con la fotograf\u00eda de cascadas con un gran efecto, ver\u00e1s que el filtro polarizador ralentiza la toma hasta cierto punto, pero lo que quieres es que el agua conserve la energ\u00eda y el movimiento, pero manteniendo el aspecto de tiempo estirado de una exposici\u00f3n m\u00e1s larga. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Yo apilo filtros, para conseguir el efecto que quiero, as\u00ed que dependiendo del nivel de luz base, el proceso es este:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Colocar el filtro polarizador en el objetivo<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Equilibra la exposici\u00f3n: utiliza ISO 100 si no hay viento, la duraci\u00f3n de la exposici\u00f3n ser\u00e1 larga en cualquier caso.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A\u00f1ade un Flter ND 0.6 - Comprueba cu\u00e1nto dura la exposici\u00f3n una vez corregida - tu objetivo son 5-10 segundos como m\u00e1ximo con una cascada bastante vigorosa.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Cambia el 0,6 por un 0,9 ajusta la exposici\u00f3n y haz otra foto.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Siempre tienes la opci\u00f3n de a\u00f1adir un 0,6 a un 0,9 si trabajas en condiciones de mucha luz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Me resulta dif\u00edcil ver en la parte trasera de la c\u00e1mara qu\u00e9 est\u00e1 pasando exactamente en el agua, estamos estirando el tiempo, pero no queremos que parezca pl\u00e1stico doblado, necesitamos conservar la sensaci\u00f3n de movimiento. As\u00ed que suelo tomar un par de exposiciones diferentes para compararlas despu\u00e9s en el estudio.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" src=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Fast-Water-Rio-Durcal.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-8952\" srcset=\"https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Fast-Water-Rio-Durcal.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Fast-Water-Rio-Durcal-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Fast-Water-Rio-Durcal-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Fast-Water-Rio-Durcal-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Fast-Water-Rio-Durcal-18x12.jpg 18w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Agua r\u00e1pida - 1\/6 segundo, CPL, f\/9.0<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>En esta imagen, el CPL se ha utilizado para eliminar los brillos especulares, de modo que el agua que cae en cascada sobre la roca parece transparente y h\u00fameda. El r\u00edo corr\u00eda muy r\u00e1pido y el CPL fue suficiente para conseguir el efecto que quer\u00eda sin necesidad de utilizar un filtro ND.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"glass-filters-versus-software\">Filtros de vidrio frente a software<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>La mayor\u00eda de las cosas que se hacen en fotograf\u00eda hoy en d\u00eda se pueden hacer con software, pero estirar el tiempo y eliminar los reflejos no. Los efectos que he conseguido aqu\u00ed con exposiciones largas no pueden reproducirse en absoluto con software. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Siempre he utilizado <a href=\"https:\/\/leefilters.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lee Filtros<\/a> pero estoy evaluando algunos filtros de <a href=\"https:\/\/kasefilters.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Kase<\/a> que son magn\u00e9ticos y redondos. Estos nuevos filtros son m\u00e1s c\u00f3modos y ocupan menos espacio que los filtros cuadrados de 100 mm que estoy acostumbrado a usar, as\u00ed que har\u00e9 una comparaci\u00f3n en un par de semanas.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>El oto\u00f1o en Europa es la \u00e9poca en la que los colores se vuelven m\u00e1s vivos y el paisaje luce en todo su esplendor. Para crear mejores fotograf\u00edas de oto\u00f1o es necesario capturar esos tonos vivos. En este art\u00edculo, vamos a explorar c\u00f3mo lograrlo f\u00e1cilmente. Filtros polarizadores de v\u00eddeo La mejor manera de hacer que los colores del oto\u00f1o destaquen\u2026<\/p>\n<div class=\"excerpt_sharing_after_output\">\n<div class=\"kt_simple_share_container kt-social-align-center kt-socialstyle-style_03 kt-social-size-normal kt-social-bg-transparent\"><a class=\"kt_facebook_share\" data-placement=\"bottom\" data-placement-mobile=\"bottom\" aria-label=\" Facebook\" data-tooltip=\" Facebook\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer.php?u=https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/es\/making-better-autumn-photography\/\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"kt-social-svg-icon\"><svg viewbox=\"0 0 264 512\"  fill=\"currentColor\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"  aria-hidden=\"true\"><path d=\"M76.7 512V283H0v-91h76.7v-71.7C76.7 42.4 124.3 0 193.8 0c33.3 0 61.9 2.5 70.2 3.6V85h-48.2c-37.8 0-45.1 18-45.1 44.3V192H256l-11.7 91h-73.6v229\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/a><a class='kt_pinterest_share kt_no_pop_window' data-toggle='tooltip' data-placement='bottom' 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class=\"kt_email_share\" data-placement=\"bottom\" data-placement-mobile=\"bottom\" aria-label=\" Correo electr\u00f3nico\" data-tooltip=\" Email\" href=\"mailto:?subject=Making Better Autumn Photography&#038;body=https:\/\/chriswright.photography\/es\/making-better-autumn-photography\/\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"kt-social-svg-icon\"><svg viewbox=\"0 0 512 512\"  fill=\"currentColor\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"  aria-hidden=\"true\"><path d=\"M464 64H48C21.49 64 0 85.49 0 112v288c0 26.51 21.49 48 48 48h416c26.51 0 48-21.49 48-48V112c0-26.51-21.49-48-48-48zm0 48v40.805c-22.422 18.259-58.168 46.651-134.587 106.49-16.841 13.247-50.201 45.072-73.413 44.701-23.208.375-56.579-31.459-73.413-44.701C106.18 199.465 70.425 171.067 48 152.805V112h416zM48 400V214.398c22.914 18.251 55.409 43.862 104.938 82.646 21.857 17.205 60.134 55.186 103.062 54.955 42.717.231 80.509-37.199 103.053-54.947 49.528-38.783 82.032-64.401 104.947-82.653V400H48z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8946,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kadence_starter_templates_imported_post":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[7,122],"tags":[13,4],"class_list":["post-8945","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-technique","category-craft-of-photography","tag-andalucia","tag-landscape-photography"],"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":7,"label":"Technique"},{"value":122,"label":"Craft 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